Day 2 - The Cobbles van Vlaanderen (Kortrijk to Ghent)

First of all gutted that I missed the the Broel Tower in Kortrijk (as I was riding out of Kortrijk) after getting the Begijnhof stuck in my head from talking to my host Jan and Hilde. You know how your mind suddenly got switched to a new thing and forgets the rest?

Anyway they were wonderful host and it was a wonderful house that must be a treasure trove for their grand children. Her paintings are nice and her jam - ah shame I forgot to sample. Jan is a Scottish tour guide and a Kortrijk river boat tour captain. Lovely couple that enjoys a good life.

Begijnhof in Kortrijk (free entrance)

Approaching Kwaremont from Stationsstraat

Epic fail

Paterberg

Paterberg

Now the famous Tour of Flanders cobble climbs: Kwaremont, Paterberg, and Koppenberg. Clearly heart attack stuff and how they can climb all three in one go is beyond me. I only managed climbing each in three goes:( Of course a different story when carrying a rucksack and two chunky bike locks that rattles and threatens to fall off.

My thanks to James who recommended the climbs and pointed out that you don't want to descend the cobbles!

(All three cobble paths are only on one side of the hill and smooth tarmac on the other). 

Koppenberg

Nonetheless I was soundly beaten and glad to reach the bottom (scary lightning descents!) and found a really nice restaurant in Oudenaarde: Den Audenaerdschen Bril.

Den Audenaerdschen Bril, Oudernaarde

Amazing Filet Pur

Actually a bit tricky to find as it's in like a basement of residential block. But amazing Filet Pur and fries! OMG the beer Omer Blond - nice but deadly at 8% especially after a long ride. Gave me a bad headache all the way to Ghent.

Oudernaarde itself is grand-er that I thought.

The ride from Oudernaarde to Ghent is mostly along traffic free canal path. Belgium canal path is nothing like the narrow "public bridleway" dirt path in London or Brecon Beacon. This is wide, paved super highway racing cyclists train on. Even the river has marked sections for speedboat and waterski!

 

When I arrived in Ghent airbnb, Arne was there waiting for me and was very friendly and soft spoken.

And Ghent is a real gem of a city. Charming yet modern.

 

I wasn't very hungry after the late lunch and by the time I finished exploring and FaceTime with the kids and too many pictures later, it was too late for my top pick 't Klaverblad. I settled for mussels in white wine at 't Klok Huys two doors down with a bottle of Vedett. The 4+ Google and TripAdvisor reviews seemed ok but the mussels were bland and way too peppery. And the fries were soggy too. Belgium and Holland love their mussels but at EUR25-28 a pot, it's way too expensive and I'll always take a fillet steak any day for the same price!